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--CATEGORY-- General Information General Electric General Nitro HPI Savage Losi LST Sportwerks Mayhem Traxxas E. Rustler Traxxas E. Stampede Traxxas N. Rustler Traxxas N. Stampede Traxxas E-Maxx Traxxas T-Maxx Traxxas Revo --ARTICLE-- Ball Joints Differential Packing Exploded Views Metal-Gear Servos MIP CVD's Motor Head Swap Pullstart Conversion Receiver Pack Servo Savers/Horns Shocks Slipper Clutch Slipper Pegs Spur Gap Steel Spur |
Receiver PacksWiring A Receiver PackAfter examining the facts a receiver pack is the preferred choice for many. So the question becomes how should it be wired into the truck for the easiest operation and charging. So to answer that question let me show you the procedure I use on my T-Maxx. First however, you'll need a few additional items to help you accomplish the task at hand. They are as follows:
Important Notes First of all, it's not necessary to actually use the "Futaba J" extensions, as you can use one designed for another servo. However most packs come with that type of plug and it prevents you from plugging the pack in backwards so it would be a wise idea to go that route if possible. Also when plugging a "Futaba J" extension into some receivers, such as a Hitec or JR, it will become necessary to trim the plug slightly to allow it to fit. However this is a minor task, although you will need to ensure that you place the plug into the receiver correctly. You may also notice that the extensions have three wires, while the receiver pack only has two. Since this extension is actually meant for a servo it also has the signal wire on it, which is the third wire. This wire is not used for what we are trying to accomplish here since we are just interested in carrying current from the battery to the receiver. Using my method below, you will leave the power switch intact, but cut the AA receiver pack loose as it will not be used. The male plug coming from the power switch can be plugged into the harness going to the receiver or the charger. You will need to cut the Futaba extensions from above and splice them into the wires to provide male and female connections to facilitate switching between charger and receiver and also to provide a quick switch between the receiver pack should the one you're using ever need to be replaced. Also while charging the power switch should be in the "on" position, so that the charger can charge the battery. Below is a wiring diagram of how I accomplished this on my T-Maxx.
![]() Make sure you use the shrink tubing to protect all exposed wire at the splices. I use the smaller diameter tubing around each set of spliced wires, and then use a larger diameter piece of tubing around the two splices for even more protection and a cleaner look. Below are a few pictures showing the connection used on my T-Maxx to switch between the charger and the receiver.
The Nitro Rustler will be similar.
![]() ![]() ![]() If you simply want to bypass making your own harness, and would prefer to buy something ready to drop into place, check out the wiring harness for the Traxxas Revo. It provides you a charging jack built-in to the power switch. Just make sure the switch is in the off position when charging the receiver pack. If you are looking for a something to charge your receiver pack back up the charger Traxxas includes with the Revo will work well for an inexpensive charger, and will charge a 1100MaH receiver pack in about an hour. You can also use several of the chargers found in my charger section. If you’re looking to get out cheap, you can try the OFNA 10214 NiMH Battery Charger. This will get you a charger for less than $10, although it’ll take several hours to top off a receiver pack.
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