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--CATEGORY-- General Information General Electric General Nitro HPI Savage Losi LST Sportwerks Mayhem Traxxas E. Rustler Traxxas E. Stampede Traxxas N. Rustler Traxxas N. Stampede Traxxas E-Maxx Traxxas T-Maxx Traxxas Revo --ARTICLE-- Ball Joints Cut Wheels/Tires Exploded Views Frequency Access Metal-Gear Servos MIP CVD's Receiver Pack RPM Arms Servo Savers/Horns Shocks Shock Mounts Slipper Clutch Slipper Pegs Spare Screws Steel Spur Steering Bellcrank |
ShocksRebuilding-Shock ReassemblyNow that you've disassembled your shocks, you should clean the parts and inspect them for wear. You will want to have a shock rebuild kit such as this one offered by Traxxas on hand when you perform the rebuild. It includes the o-rings and other items you may need to replace as well, such as bent e-clips or the rubber diaphragm. If your shocks are leaking inspect the o-rings for cuts or nicks. Even if you don't see any problems with the o-rings it is generally best to replace them as even small defects can cause a leak.
![]() Another item that should be inspected is the shock rod itself. A bent or scratched shock rod can be the culprit for leaks, and should be replaced with a new one. If the rod end is bent, cracked or damaged you should replace it as well.
![]() You will want to also examine the rest of the shock as well. Any parts that are worn or cracked should be discarded. Take the time to clean all the parts of the shock before beginning the reassembly process. Pay close attention to the holes in the piston head. These holes can sometimes get clogged up, and if that's the case, you should make sure the holes are clear. To reassemble the shock first coat the lower o-rings and spacer with shock oil, and then return them to their spot in the lower portion of the shock body. Next you'll want to slide the shock shaft into the lower part of the shock body, but before you do that it would be wise to remove the rod end from the shock rod. The reason for this is when reassembling the shock, you may find it difficult to put the e-clips back in place because you're nearly working inside the shock body. With the rod end off, you can push the rod into the shock body a little further and give yourself a little more room. Before sliding the shock shaft in place, put a little shock oil on it as well to ensure that you don't damage the o-rings. Then gently slide the shock shaft up into the shock body until only the threads, where the rod end screws on, are showing outside the lower part of the shock body. Do not push the threads beyond the o-rings. Doing so can damage them and cause them to leak. The picture below shows the proper order in which the components are reinstalled, which is the reverse of how we disassembled. Note that I have pushed my shock rods threads up into the o-rings for clarity purposes. You should still see the threaded portion of the rod sticking out from the lower part of the shock. If you look carefully you should see that the installation order is spacer, e-clip, piston head, e-clip.
![]() Once that is completed you need to reinstall the rod end. If you find it necessary to use pliers to hold the shock rod still, either keep them on the rod threads, or use some fuel tubing over the ends of a pair of needle nose pliers. It can be tedious, but remember the goal is to not scratch the shock shafts. After reinstalling the rod end, you'll need to fill the shock body up with the shock oil of your choice. Fill the body up to about 1/16 inch of the top. Then slowly move the shock rod up and down. Continue doing this until you don't see any more air bubbles in the shock fluid. Then take the rubber diaphragm and place it, rounded side down, on top of the shock. Finally screw the shock cap back into place. All you have to do now is replace the spring retainers, preload spacers, and spring. Then reinstall the shock on your truck.
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