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--CATEGORY-- General Information General Electric General Nitro HPI Savage Losi LST Sportwerks Mayhem Traxxas E. Rustler Traxxas E. Stampede Traxxas N. Rustler Traxxas N. Stampede Traxxas E-Maxx Traxxas T-Maxx Traxxas Revo --ARTICLE-- Aluminum Idler Ball Joints Battery Strap Body Posts Differential Packing Exploded Views Heat Sink Installation Kit vs. RTR Masher 2000's Metal-Gear Servos MIP CVD's Motor Gearing Motor Mount Mounting an ESC Pinion/Spur Gap Receiver Pack Receiver Strap Servo Savers/Horns Shocks Slipper Clutch Slipper Pegs Spare Screws Steel Spur Suspension Pins Top Gear Roll Pin Transmission Upgrades Wheelie Bar Wheelies Wiring Conduit |
Transmission DisassemblyThe Underside of The Transmission HousingNow gently flip your Stampede over. Remember that there are no screws to support the top side of the transmission housing. It's possible that a careless person could break the skid plate. After flipping over your Stampede, remove the two Phillips head screws that hold the arms of the skid plate to the bottom of the chassis.
![]() Now you should have a transmission housing that is separated from the rest of your Stampede. Congratulations, you're halfway there.
![]() Remove the four big screws that hold the skid plate to the bottom of the transmission housing. I have a wheelie bar on the bottom of my Stampede, so yours may look a little different.
![]() Now remove the two smaller Phillips head screws that hold the skid plate on the bottom of the transmission housing. If you are running a wheelie bar, you may have to remove it before you can see these two screws. In my case this is what I had to do.
![]() After removing the screws, the skid plate should lift off the bottom of the transmission housing.
![]() Remove the tape that covers the hole on the bottom of the transmission housing. If you didn't put tape here when you assembled your Stampede, shame on you. Make sure you use a piece when you button everything back up after you're done.
![]() Using a hex key or driver, loosen the grub screws on the output yokes. It is not necessary to remove them. Unless the heads are worn, or you plan on replacing them, I would suggest that you leave them in so they don't get lost.
![]() If you're using CVD's as I am you shouldn't have to perform this next step. I'm demonstrating this for those that do. If you are running stock output yokes, or used the small Phillips head screw with your CVD's, you should remove it now. If you are running the stock output yokes, you will need to use the Traxxas prying tool (flat piece of metal with a slot) to pop out the universal joint. This is one big advantage that CVD's have over the stock units. You don't have to fool with the universal joint. For more information regarding removal of the stock yokes, see this. Also keep in mind that Traxxas has changed their yoke design slightly. Currently, instead of two grub screws being used, the newer yokes use a single pin that runs through the entire yoke. If your truck uses the single pin design, it will not have the small Phillips screw installed. If you are running CVD's and used this screw when you installed your CVD's, you don't have to use them when you put everything back together. The screw is not necessary with CVD's. It is also not needed with the newer style of Traxxas toke that uses the single pin.
![]() Now pull the output yoke off. It may be necessary to insert a flathead screwdriver, between the output yoke and the transmission housing, and then twist gently to break it loose if it's been a while since you have removed the yokes.
![]() Once you remove both output yokes, your housing should look like the following:
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